Archive for 2008

Citrus Time!

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

If the cold-weather root vegetable parade is getting you down, remember that it’s not just turnips, parsnips and rutabaga that are in season right now. Winter is when citrus fruits in all their sweet and tart glory are at their peak.

The globalization of our food supply (and the year-round availability of orange juice and citrus) makes it easy to forget that citrus is a seasonal fruit, and that season is winter to early spring. This is when citrus fruits are cheapest and juiciest, and taste the best.

Of course, citrus will only be local if you live in a warm climate. But even if you aren’t basking in the warmth somewhere and your citrus has traveled from Florida or California, it’s still the freshest, brightest fruit you can eat in the winter.

Clementines are my favorite peel-and-eat citrus. Plus, piled high in a bowl, they make a fetching festive centerpiece. For cooking I love lemons, which lend themselves to sweet and savory foods with equal ease.

So when winter gives you lemons, make lemon squares, lemon vinaigrette, lemon-garlic chicken and so on and so on.

Kitchen Minimalism

Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008

I am a self-confessed kitchen gadgetry junkie, but my rational mind knows that when it comes to what you really need to cook well, quality always trumps quantity. I’d rather have one really good sauté pan than three mediocre ones (i.e., with plastic handles that melt in an oven).

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Here’s my list of kitchen essentials (note to self: clean out kitchen clutter after writing this).

  • One 8-inch steel chef’s knife and a reliable way to sharpen it (be that a knife sharpener, a soapstone, or regular trips to a kitchen store that sharpens knives). You’re more apt to cut yourself with a dull, flimsy knife as it skids off an onion than a razor sharp one that slices right through it.
  • A colander (I prefer metal ones after many mishaps melting the plastic kind), a carrot peeler (this can also be used to thinly shave hard cheeses or vegetables), a box grater, some wooden spoons, a whisk, slotted spoon and spatula, measuring spoons and cups.
  • A large (8 quart) lidded pot big enough to boil water for pasta and heavy-gauged enough to make soup, chili, and stews. Avoid anything too thin or you won’t be able to brown meat and vegetables without scorching them. You’ll also want a smaller (2 to 4 quarts) pot for making oatmeal, rice and the like.
  • In terms of pans, a 12-inch lidded sauté pan (straight sides) and 12-inch frying pan (sloped sides) are both indispensable. I prefer stainless steel; it conducts heat well and is easy to clean. Cast iron (available at most hardware stores) is great for the budget-minded and once fully seasoned the surface is virtually nonstick.
  • Speaking of nonstick, it is nice to have one solid nonstick pan (for omelets, pancakes and the like), but you shouldn’t sauté all your food in it, that is unless you totally hate delicious caramelized flavors and deeply browned meat (which you’ll never get with nonstick!).
  • Rimmed baking sheets (aka jelly roll pans or half sheets) are fab for everything from roasting vegetables and chickens to baking cookies.

Of course the add-ons to the list are endless (a food processor if you cook a lot, an emersion blender for making silky sauces and yogurt smoothies, and don’t forget cake pans!). But when you covet those nifty zesters, melonballers, cherry-pitters, slicers and dicers, handsome dutch ovens, chant to yourself (as I am now): less is more, less is more…

Don’t throw that out!

Friday, December 12th, 2008

After years of writing about professional restaurant chefs, I’ve learned a thing or two about getting the most out of the food you buy. Given these belt-tightening times, I thought I’d pass along a few tricks of the trade. 

 

Chefs rarely throw anything away. Bones, and everything from fennel trimmings to parsley stems, season stocks. The duck confit special that didn’t get sold at dinner is reborn as duck confit hash for brunch.

 

Lots of stuff in your kitchen can be used in other ways—to boost flavor and enhance your garden (and keep the planet greener by reducing trash).

 

The hard Parmesan crust (the part you can’t grate) can be thrown into a simmering soup to add depth of flavor (just fish it out before serving). I keep all my crusts in the freezer so I always have them on hand.

 

After I’ve roasted whole chicken, I freeze the bones until I have enough to make homemade chicken stock.  I also freeze vegetable trimmings (tough leek greens, mushroom ends, celery trimming), which are also destined for the stockpot.  

 

If you are lucky enough to have a yard and drink coffee (or loose leaf tea) you have no business throwing coffee grounds or tea leaves in the trash.  They are incredible fertilizers and look close enough to dirt so your neighbors won’t think you are turning your yard into a dumping ground!

 

So, remember– when we choose to “recycle” in the kitchen, we need not limit ourselves to the proper disposal of the packages in which our food comes. In addition to the financial gains associated with rethinking your kitchen cast-offs, you will undoubtedly discover a wealth of culinary advantages as well.

Revamp Your Spice Rack

Monday, December 1st, 2008

 Unlike fine wine, spices do not improve with age. They get stale, go rancid, and lose flavor over time.

 

Spice racks (or dark and cluttered spice shelves as the case may be) tend to be unorganized and chuck-full of spices that are well past their prime (yes, that poultry seasoning tin with rust on it is too old to use this holiday season!).

 

As holidays usher in a frenzied spell of cooking, now is a good time to revamp your spice rack. Start by throwing out herbs and spices that are over a year old. If in doubt, smell them. Still lively and fragrant? It’s probably still good. Smell dusty and faded? Throw it out.

 

Next, restock the things you use all the time. Bakers will want aromatic spices like cinnamon, ground ginger, nutmeg and cloves. If you love Mediterranean flavors, get dried herbs oregano, tarragon, and thyme. Into the exotic? Pick up some Chinese five spice, curry powder, cumin, and coriander.

 

To save money and avoid waste, I replenish my spices at the bulk food section of my natural food grocer, getting quantities I know I will use before they go stale. If I get a whole jar of something, I date it so I can keep track of how old it is. That way I know I am adding spice (and not dust) to my food. 

 

Breathing easy on Thanksgiving

Thursday, November 20th, 2008

If the thought of cooking on Thanksgiving has you breathing into a brown paper bag, panic not. Whether it’s your first or twentieth time preparing the quintessential American feast, there are always new ways to streamline and organize so you spend less time freaking out in the kitchen and more time relaxing with friends and family. Here are my favorite tricks for making Thanksgiving a day to be thankful for and not to fret over:

  • Plan AND edit your menu. Include at least two dishes you can make ahead and one dish that can cook on the stovetop to avoid a traffic jam in the oven. Once you have your dream menu mapped out, eliminate one dish to give yourself a little breathing room. I promise nobody will miss it and you’ll thank me on Thanksgiving morning.
  • Photocopy the recipes you’ll make and tape them to the cabinets at eye level on T-Day, so you aren’t left frantically flipping through cookbooks to find them.
  • Make a centerpiece of seasonal fruit (pears, apples, and clementines). You can do this ahead of time and then eat the fruit later.
  • Aside from fully cooking a turkey without drying it out, getting all the food on the table while it’s hot is my biggest Thanksgiving challenge. Slow-cookers and rice cookers are a great way to keep mashed potatoes and other moist side dishes hot. Warm platters and plates by swaddling them in an electric blanket. Gravy boats are pretty, but a teapot works better at keeping gravy piping hot.
  • Delegate! Whether this means asking somebody to set up the bar, make room in the coat closet, or bring their favorite family side dish, invite guests and family to help you out.

Good luck and have a happy (and stress-free) Thanksgiving!